Walking the Camino

Today was similar to yesterday, but with an earlier start. When we stay in albergues, our fellow pilgrims tend to wake early (and then often stuff around for hours before they actually set off for the day, dunno what they do, or why they wake so early) so we had started walking by 8am. We passed through a couple of villages early in the day, then spent the rest of the day walking through farmland, mostly grapes, olives and almonds. Tonight we’re staying at a parish refugio in Viana, our first since Roncesvalles. The refugio is in a corner of the church grounds, and we’ll go to Mass tonight at Iglesia Santa Maria, then share our evening meal with our fellow pilgrims. There is a fiesta in the town square beside the church and there is a very festive, happy vibe outside.

about 300 sheep and 20 goats being led from the front by a Shepherd on the Camino trail. The dogs were also in front. There were no people or dogs at the rear, the sheep and goats just followed the shepherd.

Our beds in the Viana Albergue

After our tough day from Puente la Reina to Estella, we had a good day yesterday, but walked most of the day in full sun without much access to water along the way. We knew there wouldn’t be many fuentes (fountains) along the way and had filled an extra water bottle, but we heard of some pilgrims who don’t actually carry water bottles, just drinking cups, and they were feeling pretty thirsty by the time they got to Los Arcos.

Last night we stayed in a brand new aubergue in Los Arcos. Albergue Casa de la Abuela opened on September 1st and we were its first Australian guests. Most of the other pilgrims staying last night were cyclists. Centrally located at the corner of Calle Major (the main street in any town or village) and the Plaza de la Fruta where the gorgeous 12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos ( Church of St Mary of the Arches) dominates the square, the aubergue was originally the current owner’s wife’s grandmother’s house and is over 150 years old. It has an excellent kitchen for any pilgrims wanting to cook their own  meal – we don’t, one of the joys of this trip is eating out every night and not worrying about gaining weigh! http://www.casadelaabuela.com We wish the owners well and hope their albergue does well for them.

We met up with our new friend Edith and a Belgian couple for a reviving pre-dinner drink, then joined them for dinner at a local restaurant – 11.5 euros for 3 courses including wine, water and bread. Great food, great company and good service. We asked the waiter about several dishes on the menu that we weren’t sure about, one of which he explained by pointing his fingers above his head and saying ‘Playboy’. Yep, it was rabbit.

Judy at the Wine Fuente

Greg and judy at lunch Vallamayor

Fuente de los Moros

We left (last as usual) to walk to the centre of town for baguettes for breakfast. It started to rain while we had breakfast, we headed out in the rain.

It was raining, yet very humid and warm.  Eventually after an hour or so it stopped, but remained cloudy, and humid (about 25C)

Bridge at Puenta La Reina

We had lunch at Cirauque, a nice hilltop town. We spend lunchtime talking to Edith, a New Zelander, who was doing the Camino for the 2nd time.

Cirauqui in the distance

The weather turning hot and sunny again (as it seems to do nearly every afternoon), and it was a hard slog to Estelle. We did not arrive at Estella unti 7:15pm.