Tag Archives: campground

Prague

So, the tent is now drying in stages on the airer in the spare room, we’re slowly emptying the car of everything we’ve accumulated over the past 5+ weeks and I’m watching far too many bread baking videos on Youtube, which is probably the surest sign that I’m ready to go home.

We visited Cesky Krumlow on Monday. Described by our Lonely Planet Guide as Czech’s only other world class sight and ‘must-see’ outside Prague, 180kms south and close to the Austrian border. I’m not sure about that, I’m really enjoying travelling here, but Cesky Krumlow was well worth visiting. Beautiful old town with a huge Renaissance Castle overlooking it. As we looked over the old town from the castle, it felt as though the view had probably not changed in centuries, there were no modern buildings and only a few advertising signs on old buildings to suggest that we were actually in the 21st Century. Located on the Vltava River, which also runs through Prague and flows out into the North Sea. We camped beside the river on Monday night at Camp Paradijs, our last night of camping on this trip. The river’s gentle sounds just a few metres from our campsite were a nice ending to the 14 nights we’ve spent in our much-loved tent on this trip.

On our way into Prague, we stopped at the Sedlac Ossuary to look at the ‘Bone Church’. I’m not even sure how to describe it – strange, weird, creative, ghoulish. The small church in Sedlac monastery has been decorated almost exclusively with bones – 4 huge piles of them, plus garlands, crosses and other shapes, all made out of human bones. Interesting but weird.

We’re spending 4 nights in an Airbnb apartment right on the edge of the old town, above Prague Castle. Parking is only a minor problem here – we can’t park right outside the apartment because it’s for residents only, or we have to SMS something to somewhere, or some other thing that is a bit out of our range of expertise; however it’s possible to park about 5 – 10 minutes walk from here, on the other side of the freeway. Just a short walk over a pedestrian bridge and on a few quiet streets. Greg has done this walk numerous times, I’ve done it once!

Yesterday we walked down to, and across, the Charles Bridge. I’m sure there were more tourists there and around the Old Square than we’ve seen anywhere this trip! Even Dubrovnik wasn’t as crowded. Gorgeous place, though – the bridges, the buildings, the squares. We just happened to be at the Astronomical Clock as it was about to strike on the hour – well, the huge crowd of people gathered expectantly nearby gave us a clue that something was about to happen, so we waited to see.  And we’ve extended our Trdelnik Chimney Cake experience by adding an Apple strudel ice cream cone one and a pizza one to the range we’ve eaten!

We caught up with our Czech friend Peter last night. We met him when he was cycling in Tassie a couple of years ago, then he came and stayed in ADL with us for a few days and we’ve kept in touch ever since. He encouraged us to come to Prague on this trip and I’m really glad that we did. So anyway after tossing around a few ideas of when and where to meet, we decided to have dinner here at the apartment, which was an excellent plan until I realised about 45 minutes after putting the chicken and potatoes in the oven that the oven wasn’t working due to operator error! There is a beautiful terracotta Schlemmer Topf roasting dish here and I was keen to use it, but messed up the oven settings, so dinner was a bit later than we had intended. It tasted good, though and I’m going to keep an eye out for a terracotta dish at the op shops I haunt in my never-ending search for Women’s Weekly cookbooks. Then we had Medovnik Honey Cake for dessert. I’m definitely going to have a go at making one of those when we get home – layers of honey cake with buttercream icing in between, and caramel & walnuts on top. It was good, but very filling.

Peter has given us great tips on where to go and what to see, and we’re getting together again tonight to eat Czech food in a restaurant. Good times!

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Cesky Krumlow Castle
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Cesky Krumlow
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Cesky Krumlow
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Cesky Krumlow
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Chimmey Cake (Trdelnik) at Cesky Krumlow
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at Cesky Krumlow there were lots of Chinese tourists. They are obsessed with taking selfies. Here are 3 in a row getting ready to take selfies.
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Cesky Krumlow
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Camped by the river at Camp Paradijs
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Leaving the rock behind. The white rock had travelled with us from Italy to knock in tent pegs, we left it next to a campfire with other rocks to live out its life so far from home.
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Sedlac Ossuary sign near the entrance all in bone
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Sedlac Ossuary decorations of skulls
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Sedlac Ossuary ceiling decorations
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Sedlac Ossuary
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Sedlac Ossuary bone and skull pyramids (there are several)
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Sedlac Ossuary
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Sedlac Ossuary
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Apartment in Prague
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Entrance to the Charles Bridge
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Ice protection for the Charles Bridge
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Apple Strudel and Ice-cream Chimney Cake (Trdelnik)
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Trdelnik cooking
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Astronomical clock Old town square
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Old town square
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John Lennon wall. More about graffiti on who was there than John Lennon

 

Zadar, Croatia

We are slowly making our way south down the Croatian coast. Stunning scenery, lovely weather, loads of tourists and a lot of holiday accommodation options …. many of them full at this time of the year. We did see an interesting thing this morning as we drove through a mid-sized coastal town – people sitting on folding chairs or in their car, holding a cardboard sign with ‘Apartmen’ handwritten on it. Our host at Kamp Romantic told us that lots of people rent out a room or ‘granny flat’ during the busy season, and I guess the people advertising their ‘apartments’ could have been off the main road and not so easy to find.

Last night we camped again, at a larger campground 120kms south of Labin. We’re not putting in much distance each day, in part because of the winding roads and 40 – 50km speed limit a lot of the time, but also because there’s stuff we want to see along the way. We got to Kamp Kozica early in the afternoon, and waited for a thunderstorm to pass before putting up the tent. We camped in an old terraced almond grove,with great ocean views and across to Krk Island. The campground was fairly full, and more and more vehicles arrived as the afternoon progressed. Campground facilities were … I can’t think of a nice way to say this … deplorable. Rubbish bins overflowing, no toilet paper, terrible water pressure, dirty amenities. We didn’t see anyone doing anything around the campground, as opposed to Kamp Romantik where the host and his mother were working constantly around the place. We got used to the no toilet paper and no toilet seat thing in Sth America, where we were paying Sth American prices, but paying AUD $40 for that seems extortionate. Especially when we can get Airbnb apartments for $90 or less.

(whinge over, sorry about that)

We’re now staying in Zadar for a couple of nights in an Airbnb apartment – this one, actually.   It’s lovely, our host lives upstairs and has supplied breakfast provisions, information about the town and some recommendations on where to eat. The garden is full of fruit trees, including 2 pomegranate trees. I’m very tempted to pick just one …

More pictures on the photo pages here

Garden at the back of the AirBnB in Zadar
Garden at the back of the AirBnB in Zadar
camped at the disappointing Kamp Kozica
camped at the disappointing Kamp Kozica
Looking across to the arid islands of the Adriatic
Looking across to the arid islands of the Adriatic
Looking north along the Dalmatian coast
Looking north along the Dalmatian coast
There might not be any sand, and its very rocky but the waters of the Adriatic are crystal clear
There might not be any sand, and its very rocky but the waters of the Adriatic are crystal clear
People selling apartments for rent at the side of the road waving apartment signs
People selling apartments for rent at the side of the road waving apartment signs
selling-apartments-2
More apartment sellers


Camping in Liechtenstein

Last night we camped in Liechtenstein. Well, there’s something I never thought I’d get to say.

But let’s catch up on the last few days. We flew Qatar Airlines from Adelaide to Doha to Munich on Sunday-Monday. Good flights, almost-new planes, both of them fairly full. Getting through Immigration in Munich was probably the worst experience we’ve ever had, and we’ve been through the LAX ordeal a few times. Too many people, not enough officials to process us all. Anyway, both our enormous duffel bags were there, with the 60kgs we seem to travel everywhere with – tent, sleeping mattresses, gas stove, ice box, about 8kgs of travel guides and all the rest of the must-haves.

We picked up ‘our’ shiny white Ford Focus station wagon from the Avis counter, and that was a bit complicated because we’re renting it for more than the standard 30 days, but it eventually got sorted and headed to our hotel in a little village about halfway between the airport and Munich.

Then yesterday we started the drive south towards Croatia, passing through Austria and into Liechtenstein. It’s always such a thrill, going to another country without catching a plane, and in fact yesterday we were actually in 3 different countries in the one day!

We’re having the usual minor problems of trying to find things – folding chairs, gas cartridges, ice. The folding chairs seem to be rare here, or we’re just not looking in the right places. Finally found some, at 3x the price of home. Gas cartridges are even rarer, and much more expensive, and ice is non-existent … so far. Hopefully as we head further south and it gets warmer, we’ll find some.

We tried a campground in Austria last night, but they only had one tiny site, so we kept on going to a campground between Feldkirch and Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein. $50 for an unpowered tent site, but the campground is gorgeous … terraced sites built on a hill, fruit trees everwhere, and the apple trees are all laden with ripe fruit at the moment, cute little chalet-style cabins, grass and an outdoor pool. It’s 11C here today,  so we’ll be giving the pool a miss, I think. We can see across the valley to villages on the mountain opposite. It rained last night, but is fine today … so far!

And here are a few things we’ve learnt about Liechtenstein – population 37,000 (no, I didn’t leave any zeros off that number!), 3rd highest GDP in the world after Qatar & Luxemburg, 6th smallest country in the world and it’s double land-locked, which means it is landlocked by countries which are also landlocked. I really hope that last fact is a question at a Quiz Night sometime soon! Like Norway, they are not part of the EU, but are in the European Free Trade Association. Unemployment rate of 1.5%, German speaking and they have a monetary union with Switzerland, so prices are in CHF Swiss francs, but the campground also accepted our euros, at a rate of 1:1. When we were checking in, there was an Asian family who were not happy about that exchange rate for complicated reasons, but we just figured that paying the equivalent of $50 for a tent site was so outrageous that saving a couple of bucks wasn’t going to make much difference.

Camped in Liechenstein in Mittagspitze
Camped in Liechenstein in Mittagspitze
with the Alps in the background
with the Alps in the background